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Country wisdom
By: Carole Clark, Ph.D.

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Posted by editor Mon Sep 18, 2006 15:33:27 PDT
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I’ve recently returned from two weeks in Russia, traveling by riverboat from Moscow to St. Petersburg and visiting several locations alone the way. Let me repeat answers to some of the many questions I’ve been asked.

First, let me stress that Russia is different. The city and country landscapes seem familiar and the people look, more or less, like average Americans. But that appearance belies a culture, a history and a way of thinking that couldn’t be more different from the culture, history and way of thinking I’ve encountered in other travels. The country appears to be Asian, European, both or neither. Moscow, the capital of one of the largest countries in the world, presents a dizzying array of the old and new, the shabby and sparkling...gold spires and disintegrating concrete high-rises.

What is the country like?

From a tourist’s point of view, and having seen so much of the countryside from the waterways, I loved how beautiful and green it was. (We moved through 18 individual locks between Moscow and St. Petersburg). What was hard to visualize was that these rivers and lakes are all frozen solid for many months during their winters. Summer days seldom reach 70. Generally, the country is rather flat and the waterways add beauty to the cities.

The Kremlin, legacy of Ivan the Great, is probably the most breathtaking citadel on earth. The awesome architecture and the structures within compromise the historical heart and soul of Russia. There is no question that you know you are in Russia when you enter Red Square. Both Moscow and St. Petersburg are a wealth of national treasures and it is hard to comprehend the magnificence of the churches, subways, statues, cathedrals, the summer and winter palaces of the previous Czars (now national museums), and of course the Hermitage which rivals or excels the Louvre in Paris.

What are living conditions really like?

Although not as high in many areas, in St. Petersburg, some 70 percent of the people still live below the poverty level. For many, a home is one room, with kitchen and bathroom facilities shared by others on your floor. The government seems to be focusing on new living accommodations and high rises can be seen in all stages of completion. As one Russian explained, with housing paid for and television available, most of their income is spent for food, but they no longer have food lines. Can we in our country, ever understand the peasants’ ability to survive under such harsh circumstances?

What about the people?

Russians want us in their country —  as tourists and friends. They can be among the warmest people on earth, and have an insatiable curiosity about the ways of the West. And they don’t expect you to know their language. Our guide, Natasha, would jokingly indicate that Russians always expect the worst, but it is possible to see changes and they are hopeful — hopeful that their move toward democracy will hold. There were times in the recent past when they were extremely fearful, but they attribute the move forward to President Putin. After many discussions, I feel their trust in him is validated.

What is the political situation at the present moment?

Political and economic changes are taking place rapidly. This country has been oppressed for centuries. They are moving toward capitalism and a democracy but it is, and will probably be, a slow process. In talking to Russians, they are sure that it will happen, and therefore it will.

Is the vodka as good as it’s reputed to be?

Absolutely yes. Our guide reminded us that, “A Russian would never take a drink without making a toast. (Only alcoholics would drink without toasting.)” And it is always taken in one swallow. ‘Bottoms up.’ So, this toast is to Russia. May her dreams of a democracy come true.
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