Auto Q & A
Auto Q & A
By: Dr. Wheels
Topics:
Posted by editor Mon Sep 18, 2006 17:04:13 PDT
Viewed 630 times
1 response 0 comments Dear Q & A: I’ve been having my oil changed at gas stations for years, but lately most stations don’t do this any more. The specialty places that just change oil have recently raised their prices a lot for what they call a “complete service” that used to be standard. If I want to change my own oil, what exactly is the procedure I should follow? And what do I need in the way of equipment? - Coho
Dear Coho: You’re right about the price bump-up. The former $25 oil change/filter/lube/check-all-fluids package suddenly costs $10 to $15 more. For your $25 you now get just an oil change and filter: In and out, six minutes, $25, thank you, goodbye. Your car, like many, probably has no grease nipples, so you don’t need a lube job. If you’re up to getting down under your car, you’ll need a couple of sturdy steel ramps, a wrench and a socket that fits the hex-head drain plug on the pan under your engine, an oil filter wrench, four to six quarts of the oil recommended for your vehicle, a fresh oil filter that fits your engine, and a flat two-gallon drain pan. All these are available at your local auto parts store.
First, find a flat, level place to work, away from traffic and other vehicles. Position the two steel ramps just ahead of your front wheels, then very carefully drive those wheels up onto the centers of the flat tops of the ramps. Put the transmission in “park”, and set the emergency brake. Open the hood. Remove the oil filler cap, and put it in a safe place.
Now for the down and dirty. Let your engine cool down. Placing a wide sheet of cardboard or plywood on the ground under your front bumper, lie on your back with your head under the engine. Position your drain pan to catch the used oil. Loosen the drain plug. When it comes loose, there will be a spurt of hot, black oil. Get your hand out of the way so you don’t get burned. And hang onto that plug, to avoid having to fish for it in the drained oil. After all the oil drains out, clean and carefully replace the drain plug and firmly tighten it with the wrench.
Next the oil filter. Reaching up into the dark engine (a light may help here), unscrew the filter, using a strong hand or the filter wrench. This is the sloppy part, because the filter contains a lot of oil that wants to spill out. Now lube the rubber gasket on the new filter, using some of the dirty oil, and screw the new filter into position. Hand-tighten very firmly. Fram brand filters, with their roughened outer surface, make screwing easier. Empty the dirty filter’s contents into the drain pan.
Your drain plug and filter firmly replaced, it’s time to add new oil, but only the amount your handbook calls for. A big funnel helps here. Once your fresh oil’s all in, replace the oil filler cap firmly. Start your engine and watch for the oil pressure gauge to move from zero to normal or the red light to go out. You did it! Back down off the ramps.
Now, with the engine still running, use the transmission dip stick to check your transmission fluid. Full? Pink? No burnt smell? Good. Shut off the engine. Check the power steering fluid, brake master cylinder fluid, and coolant overflow tank levels, adding the appropriate fluids where needed. Close the hood. Finally, pour the drained oil into a sealable plastic container and take it to your nearest used oil disposal station. Many auto parts stores accept used motor oil; phone ahead.
That wasn’t so bad, was it? You’ve just saved $35 to $45, had a little workout, and boosted your self-esteem. Remember, the first time is the hardest, but you’ll know it’s done right. You can grow to enjoy this little ritual--no kidding.
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