Is Tehachapi possibly the new Tuscany? Two local viticulturists (grapevine cultivators) and the owners of the posh, recently opened The Wine and Cheese Cellar, are all firmly rooted in the belief that the area’s unique grapevine growing conditions will lead to a fruitful eco-tourism industry for connoisseurs and wine lovers of all types.
Tehachapi’s ‘first crushers’ celebrate silver
After years of restoring the 1888 Victorian home and barns on the old Stowell Estate they purchased in 1990, Bob and Patty Souza made a choice several years ago to do something previously untried in the Cummings Valley: In 2002 they planted a vineyard with Primitivo Zinfandel seedlings cloned from a 100 year-old plant, and The Souza Family Vineyard came into being.
“My mom planted the first plant and the first row,” Bob Souza said proudly.
“Our research suggested that our hot days, cool evenings and breezy conditions, along with our rocky soil, would be perfect for growing grapes,” Souza explained. “The unique growing characteristics and weather conditions here in Cummings Valley, along with our altitude over 4,000 feet, allow the grapes to ripen slowly and that's what makes them more flavorful.”
As a Souza family friend once said to them, “Tehachapi wine is like a woman - full bodied with great legs.”
Souza explained that “legs” in this case refers to the marks left on the inside of a wine glass after the wine has been swirled during the tasting process.
Not knowing that viticulturists don't usually enter any competition from their first crush (first harvest), the Souza's blithely entered their 2005 Primitivo Zinfandel in the San Francisco Chronicle's Wine Competition, and out of 1,500 different vineyards, walked away with a silver medal.
“We were amazed when we heard the verdict!” Souza said.
The Souza's have come a long way and presently are constructing a wine tasting room and gift shop which is expected to be open for customers on July 1.
“Our long term goal is to one day put in a winery on the premises,” Souza said. “Currently we send our harvested grapes to Paso Robles for processing.”
A bed and breakfast overlooking the vineyard is planned farther down the road, Souza said.
Tehachapi area vineyards will also be a new attraction on the tour list of the Antelope Valley Wine Growers Association, according to its president, Chantel Kilmer, providing another new opportunity to bring eco-tourism dollars into the area by limo or busload, during the summer and fall months.
"We'll be offering self-tours as well as guided tours highlighting vineyards from Aqua Dulce to Tehachapi," Kilmer said.
First area vintners inspire new family venture
A friend of the Souza's and another grape-growing convert, Chuck McCollough, also a member of the Antelope Valley Winegrowers Association. His Triassic Legacy Vineyard, visible from Highway 202, was just planted on April 5 with 6,310 plants on seven acres.
“We had between 80 and 100 volunteers here to help us plant and even an Los Angeles couple on their way to their condo in Stallion Springs stopped in for a bit when they saw all the cars and commotion,” said McCollough. “We had adults, teenagers and even a one year old helping us out,” added McCollough's son-in-law, George Gonzales.
Gonzales and McCollough's daughter, Sadie McCollough, from Bakersfield, are partners in the vineyard venture with the senior McCollough. Gonzales also is attending classes given by Dr. Kevin Patterson at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo to further his vineyard knowledge and assure the vineyard's success. They plan to build a home at the vineyard and become area residents in the near future.
And, although the Souza Family Vineyard and Triassic Legacy Vineyard both include the Primitivo Zinfandel grape (among others), both Souza and McCollough anticipate that the flavor will be somewhat different because the soil in both locations differs.
Do the two viticulturists see each other as competitors, especially since only about two miles separate their vineyards? A resounding “No” from both sides of the road. As a matter of fact, the Souza's were among those helping McCollough with his planting.
Souza, McCollough and Gonzales agree: “The more the merrier.”
The way they see it, once there are about 200 acres of grapes, then it makes sense to have an area winery so shipping to Paso Robles isn't necessary — and that, of course, fits right in with Souza's long-term plans to build a winery on his property.
Souza, McCollough and Gonzales are anxious to extend a helping hand, as well as their knowledge and expertise to others interested in vineyard activities of their own.
“We'd like to make Tehachapi a tourist destination, along with the economic benefits for everyone in the community,” McCollough said.
An upscale wine seller’s cellar serves wine, cheeses and a fine dining menu fit for royalty
Entrepreneurs Doug and Mary Amos, who are no strangers to Tehachapi, also would like to take Tehachapi a step closer to drawing people in from the “outside” to partake of “fine dining” experiences. So, after much contemplation and research, they decided to open The Wine and Cheese Cellar.
“Wine bars are the hottest business ventures coast to coast, right now,” Doug Amos shared. “And we wanted to have a place where folks could taste different wines and cheeses and have an upscale place to relax.”
Doug Amos voiced a strong belief that if Tehachapi has more fine dining type establishments, then residents wouldn't feel compelled to travel and spend money out of town when they want something besides burgers or Mexican food. Amos also plans to become a stop on the AV Winegrowers tour this summer, bringing some of that “outside” money, into Tehachapi.
In addition to being able to sample different types of wines and cheeses, The Wine and Cheese Cellar offers appetizers, salads, paninis and sandwiches, pizzas and desserts. True wine connoisseurs (even fledglings with aspirations) might be interested in membership to their wine club. Wine lockers also are available for members. A patio is expected to be furnished in the very near future for those wishing to sip port, and perhaps even smoke cigars, when weather permits.
Federal appellation would identify Tehachapi wines for world wine market
Could the Tehachapi Valley soon be recognized as an appellation, a geographic name under which winegrowers can identify and market wines — like Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino?
Viticulturist consultant Ralph Carter believes that the Tehachapi Valley has a good chance and voiced his opinion lauding the area's qualities in a report sent to a branch of the U.S. Treasury Department officials who review the applications. Receiving an appellation is a lengthy process, but once it's approved, it becomes a federal law, according to Carter.
So, watch out, Napa and Sonoma. Tehachapi could be the new Tuscany — on American soil.
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